Dubrovnik – Kotor – Bar: 146 km

Another one of those countries that I do not know what to expect from. A place I don’t really hear anything about or meet anyone from, ever. I have however heard that Kotor is the place to visit. So that’ll be my first stop. After getting out of Dubrovnik the traffic calms and the ride gets beautiful. I feel somewhat sad leaving Croatia, but I’m very excited for the next adventure.

Kotor is, and I know it is becoming a common theme, a place that seems unreal. Small winding streets lead to romantic squares, overlooked by medieval church towers, that, in turn are overlooked by the nearby mountains in the background. The salty air from the bay cools the terraces, where a handful of people balance their chairs on the chunky and crooked ancient pavers. Kotor seems preserved by its relative unkownness. The perfect place for a romantic comedy, or drama maybe.

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That night the rain starts. It won’t stop for the next 10 days. Maybe even more, I haven’t counted. But I don’t know that then. The morning comes, and in-between the showers I set out bravely towards Shkodër, Albania. I cross mountain after mountain, always with a view over the Adriatic. I have to stop and wait when the rain gets heavier. I sit in bus stops, have coffee at gas stations, sometimes I hide underneath a tree. The low hanging clouds play with the mountains and hide the trees on them. Every other minute another shape, the panoramas dazzling. I realise that I won’t make Shkodër at this pace, and adjust my plan for the city of Bar. Great name for a city by the way!

Bar is the opposite of Kotor. The streets are wide and cars tear over them as if they’re highways. The architectural style I can only describe as ‘neglected soviet’. Straight lined apartment buildings, never painted, crumble. Once imposing buildings are abandoned and consequently filled up with graffiti. The rain and overall grey weather conditions of the day don’t help the city’s image. I ride around a little bit, but go to my hostel soon, where I can get warm and dry. Not before a dog almost bites my leg off.