Zadar – Šibenik – Split: 180 km

There’s something about Croatia that makes me not want to leave. I feel comfortable here. The three days in Zadar have been good for me. They have slowed me down a little, and that’s exactly what I needed. Next big city on the map is Split. With a stop in, or near Šibenik, I should be arriving in two days. The weather here is still relentlessly sunny, the locals say we’re lucky at this time of year.

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Along the way to Šibenik I pass a small fisher’s town where I have lunch on the porch of a supermarket next to the sea. The forest-route out of town seems more interesting than the main road, so that’s where I’m headed. But my bladder is full, so I make a stop along the deserted gravel road. A man on a scooter approaches me from the other side of the track. He apparently also has to urinate, and decides to do so just a little too close to where I am, on the opposite side of the road. I’m done by now, get on my bike and continue, but before long I’m overtaken by that same man on the scooter. Strange I think, because he came from that way. The road bends and through the trees I see him slowing down and coming to a stop, getting off and facing my way. Is he waiting for me? Suddenly I realize we’re the only ones here, and I get uncomfortable. In a split second I decide not to pass him. His behaviour has been too strange, and I simply do not want to take the risk. I get my bike to a screeching stop and turn around, racing back to the village, taking on much more speed and risks than I would normally be comfortable with on these dirt tracks. I look back and see the man is following me, having turned around once more. Now it’s obvious he want’s something from me. I race my heart out and luckily the forest ends and turns into the town before he can catch up with me. I take a bunch of turns through traffic and narrow alleys and get back on the main road. The presence of other traffic gives me a sense of security. By this point I’m time trailing for about an hour, looking back every couple of kilometres. Only after an hour I feel confident I shook him off, but still keep looking over my shoulders in paranoia. The rest of the ride I debate in my thoughts whether I overreacted or not. Possibly.

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After a quaint night in Šibenik, and a beautiful but uneventful ride, I arrive in Split. A town that offers historic architecture and parties. Due to Covid restrictions the night life is somewhat on hold, although party-seekers find each other on the peer every night, well into morning. My recent sleeping schedule doesn’t accommodate the pier-parties. I get tired nowadays around 9, so I visit the ancient church, its accompanying ruins, the museum and underground chambers instead. In Zadar I met Issa, Abhi and Parkishit, who’re going south down the coast just like me. It’s good to see their faces again. I haven’t really met people more often than once so far, and now they’re the closest people to me that I know. The closest thing to friends. We swim, exchange the stories we’ve made since Zadar, and have a drink on the pier of course. We will meet again in Dubrovnik.